In the northern climates, lawns spend
several months in their dormant winter state. A few simple basics will
help prepare your lawn for winter.
Final
fall mowing
Since grass often spends several weeks
under snow cover, it's important that turf isn't long enough to "lay
over" during winter. Therefore, send your lawn into winter at the proper
height. While some homeowners limit this shortening process to one final
cut, it's better to lower the
mowing height over the final 3 lawn mowings. LawnBoss tip: Lower your cutting height for the last 3 cuts of
the season. Adjust your final mowing height to the shorter height
recommended for your particular variety of grass. Don't forget to do your
winter
lawn mower maintenance!
VIDEO: Winter Snow
Mold damage
'Winterizer'
Fertilizer
It's common to see "winterizer" lawn
products at your local lawn and garden center. The common trait in these
'winterizers' is a higher proportion of Potassium (or Potash) than is
common in other lawn fertilizers. Potassium increases the winter
hardiness and disease resistance of turfgrass. These products should be
applied before the ground is frozen. Since potash usually has a higher
"salt index" than other lawn nutrients, apply it when the grass is dry
and at the recommended rate on the fertilizer label.
This label is from a lawn fertilizer that's
considered a 'winterizer' due to a higher
amount of potash (12%)
Protecting lawns from salt damage
Every spring, lawn damage
from de-icers is
obvious, especially along curbs and sidewalks. One way to minimize lawn
damage from salt is to apply Gypsum to these areas in the fall of the
year.
Gypsum helps minimize salt damage
Gypsum plant in Cleburne,
Texas Photos:
Richard Swim
Spring
lawn care
During winters when snow cover persists,
it's not uncommon to have some "snow mold" damage on lawns. There are
two types of snow mold, pink and gray, and they typically leave
"flattened" areas of turf. At the start of Spring, use a leaf rake and
vigorously rake these areas to counter the matting-down effect.
