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Lawn FAQ  
Answers to frequently asked questions about lawn care

INDEX

• I live near Philadelphia, Pa and wondered if this is a good time to apply lime New!
• After I bought my house in Pennsylvania I noticed the grass turned a brown color from October to about April New!
• I am going to lay sod in my back yard in the fall
• I'm getting some dandelions in our new lawn
• Our lawn is looking bad this spring with brown patches
• I have much ugly tall fescue, is there a way to eliminate it?
• Why do mushrooms reappear on my lawn in the same place?
• Is it too late this fall to apply potassium?
• In Orlando, Florida, when do I fertilize to help my grass grow?
• In what application would one use a 12-0-12 fertilizer?
• What steps can I take toward having a better lawn this year?
• Why are sections of my lawn only green in the summer?
• Can I mow my lawn following core aeration?
• Is it too late to plant grass seed?
• What does winterizer fertilizer do?
• How short should my lawn be heading into winter?
• Is mowing necessary prior to core aeration?
• When is the best time to kill dandelions?

A: Fall is generally considered the best time of year to apply lime to a lawn. Most of the reason has to do with the advent of freezing weather and a freeze-thaw cycle that helps 'work' lime into the soil. Since lime moves so slowly through the soil, it is a good idea to aerate the lawn first, punching holes and pulling soil plugs that should be left on the lawn surface. These holes provide great entry ways for the lime to move down into the soil profile.
Powdered agricultural lime is the least expensive form of lime, but pelletized lime is much easier to apply -- pellets are formed from lime powder and can be easily applied with a cyclone spreader (see image).
Calcium carbonate is the most common type of lime on the market, but you will also find dolomitic lime containing more magnesium. A soil test will determine which one is best for you.
In the northeastern United States, September is lawn month, due to that month providing the best conditions for seeding a lawn, renovating a lawn, or just doing regular maintenance like aeration. We recommend that core aeration be done every year, preferably in the fall, but spring is also a viable option.

A: Watch the advertising pages of the Sunday newspaper since they will soon carry ads for buying Zoysia "plugs" which you plant at close intervals in your existing sod to get the Zoysia to spread out and take over other grasses. Funny thing is that wild onions always seem to invade Zoysia lawns in Pennsylvania.

There are colorants available for coloring a lawn green during dormant periods, but we are not sure where to locate them or know of anyone who provides that service. You might want to check with lawn service companies in your area.
(Photo: Brown-colored Zoysia in Pennsylvania during its dormant period)

A: Kentucky Bluegrass sod prefers full sun, and September is the best month for doing this lawn work. Remember that sod needs watered regularly to help it establish properly. Now the specific answers to your lawn questions:
1. Dogs and lawn grass (including sod) don't mix well as you probably already know. Frequent watering to flush out the urine helps a little. Seems I have seen products that help reduce lawn spotting, maybe something you add to the dog's diet?? Check with your vet first of course.
2. Most sod around Pittsburgh is about the same (predominantly Kentucky Bluegrass) even though there are two grades of sod. I've heard some of the big box lumber yards get sod deliveries on and off (..get it when it is fresh!) or you could try a local nursery or garden center.

A: A new lawn should be old enough to have been mowed at least 3 times before any weed killers are applied. Since you just have a few weeds, it would be best to "spot treat" the weeds with a broadleaf weed killer instead of using a "blanket treatment" for the entire lawn. If you mix your weed killer from a concentrate, and use a pump-up sprayer, be sure to clearly label the sprayer "WEEDS ONLY" so you know not to use it for other applications, such as spraying insects on trees and shrubs. It is best to have two separate sprayers for these different purposes. Always read and follow label directions on pesticides, and keep them out of the reach of children. Never transfer a pesticide to a different container. A child may drink it thinking it is something else.

A: This is a fairly common lawn condition this Spring since we had snow cover for so long in many parts of the northeastern United States. The disease that causes this brown patchiness is called snow mold, and there are two varieties: pink and gray snow mold. In most instances, taking a leaf rake and lightly raking your lawn to break that surface "crust" is about all that's needed. If a few dead patches persist you will have to do some spot-seeding. Just remember that most crabgrass control products will interfere with grass seed germination, so you usually have to either seed or apply crabgrass preventer. Otherwise, you can seed in the fall.

A: The method I would use would be to spray the Fescue with Round-Up® in the spring after the Fescue is actively growing. Read the Label. Of course the active ingredient glyphosate is not a selective herbicide, so it will kill all the other grasses and vegetation that are contacted by the spray.

If the Tall Fescue is scattered throughout the lawn, you may have to do a total renovation to get rid of all the Tall Fescue, and then reseed. If the thatch layer has built-up over 1/2-inch, you should probably spray the lawn with Round-Up, wait one week, then strip the lawn off with a sod cutter to get rid of that thatch layer and get down to bare soil. It would be a good idea to do a soil test in advance of a lawn renovation so you can balance your soil nutrients at the same time.

A: Chances are good that a tree was growing in that spot on your lawn at one time. Even when trees are removed with their stumps "ground-out" some of the stump and roots will remain. It's from this old decaying wood that mushrooms will grow. There aren't any chemical controls for this sort of problem. You can remove the mushrooms if they are an annoyance, but never eat wild mushrooms without first consulting an expert.

A: Since potassium has a high "burn" potential, it is best to apply it late in the season when top growth has ceased but grass roots are still growing, and ideally, water it in or have rainfall shortly afterwards. You should still be OK applying it now, but don't wait much longer. (Question sent during the first half of November)

The recommendation of 7 lbs of 0-0-60 would give you 4.2 lbs of actual potassium, which is quite a bit.... did they recommend putting it all on in one shot?  I would be more inclined to split that sort of heavy application into halves, applying half this fall and the second half next fall. It is tricky to apply that high an analysis of fertilizer at the right rate since you are applying such a small amount (weight wise) and have to put it on lightly and evenly. I'd skip the nitrogen for now.

Note: Most fall 'winterizer' fertilizers are higher in potassium than usual to promote winter hardiness and disease resistance in lawns.

A: As soon as snow disappears and your lawn becomes soft enough to get soil samples, gather samples from the main part of your lawn. Most land grant universities (i.e. Penn State, Ohio State, Michigan State) have agricultural extension services that sell soil test kits for a nominal fee of $10 or so. Instructions are included with the kits for pulling samples. Air dry wet soil prior to mailing it to the lab. Once results come back, follow instructions for balancing your pH and major soil nutrient levels. Creating this basic balance will make all your other fertilizer applications much more efficient.
Step 2 - Start the mowing season with a sharp lawnmower blade.
Step 3 - Mow your lawn at the proper height, which is probably higher than you are currently mowing it. Mow often enough that you aren't removing more than 1/3 of the height. Mulch your clippings if possible.
Step 4 - Water more effectively. Thorough watering promotes deeper roots.
Step 5 - Don't over-fertilize, or fertilize grass that is dormant in summer.
Step 6 - Read the label on every product you use, follow label directions.

A: The straw brown color of dormant Zoysia grass is captured in this early spring photo. Most Zoysia lawns in the northeastern United States stay brown for 6 months or more -- from just after the first hard frost in the Fall until late Spring. Chances are the previous homeowner planted some Zoysia "plugs." You've probably seen the ads for them in the Sunday newspaper every Spring, touting the benefits of a weed-free lawn that needs very little mowing.
In defense of Zoysia, let me say that some people really do love the low-maintenance aspects of the grass in their northeastern US lawns. However, most people object to its invasive nature, and especially the prolonged period of straw brown color every winter.
Eliminating your Zoysia lawn will require a good 1-2 punch: Spray the grass with glyphosate (Round-Up®) when the grass is green and actively growing (read and follow label instructions). Wait 7 days and remove the grass and roots with a sod-cutter. (Most rental companies have sod-cutters available, but due to their heavy weight, you may need to have it delivered) Removing the old sod won't be an easy job since the roots of Zoysia grass are nearly as tough as fishing line. Reseed as you would with any new lawn.

A: Provided you don't lower your cutting height, there shouldn't be any problem mowing your lawn with a rotary mower. The blade should cut just above the soil cores without contacting them. Soil cores usually 'disappear' in about 3 weeks.
Some people ask about removing the cores. While that is necessary on a golf green (for smooth putting), soil cores should be left on a home lawn since the soil plugs help breakdown thatch. (Also see mulching leaves into a lawn)

A: Yes, it is 2 weeks too late to plant grass seed in Pennsylvania. The best seeding window for your area is August 20th thru October 10th. Seed planted later than that may not germinate properly, and if it does start to grow it may not get established enough to handle the soil's heaving action with winter's freeze-thaw cycles.
Your next opportunity to seed will be Spring, if you can seed without applying pre-emergent for crabgrass control or any other weed killers, since these products will be detrimental to your seeding efforts. Fall is the best time to plant grass seed in your area.

A: Many lawn fertilization programs include a final application of "winterizer." These fertilizers contain a higher amount of potassium than most lawn fertilizer. An example of that ratio is: 10-10-20. Higher potassium levels will improve winter hardiness in lawn grass.
Potassium has a high salt index creating a 'burn' potential in some instances, so read and follow label instructions. If you are also applying lime in the Fall, it is best to separate your winterizer and lime applications by at least 2 weeks.

A: Let's begin this answer by saying it is never good to 'scalp' or remove more than 1/3 of the height of your lawn in one cutting. However, it is a good idea to reduce the height of your lawn gradually as winter approaches.
The ultimate goal is to have your grass short enough that is doesn't lay-over in winter and become more prone to snow mold disease. Lowering your mowing height one setting, when slower growth permits it, will usually do the trick. It is best to lower the mowing height a couple cuts before the end of the mowing season.

A: The heavy weight of most core aeration machines makes the grass height unimportant since the hollow tines will push through just about any length of grass. Most mowing heights aren't set low enough for the blade to contact the soil cores, so that isn't usually an issue either. However, it is important that lawn soil isn't too dry since hard, dry ground will affect the depth of tine penetration. It's also undesirable to aerate soggy ground.
Since soil cores should be left on the lawn surface, the only reason to mow in advance of aeration would be to give yourself another week before having to mow again, since rainfall can create a muddy condition where cores might want to stick to your lawnmower's wheels. 
  

Aeration cores usually take about
3 to 4 weeks to break down

A: Fall is the best time to kill dandelions and other broadleaved weeds. Since weeds are actively storing reserves for winter they are more susceptible to weed killers that translocate to the roots. Remember that weeds should be actively growing (not experiencing drought) for best results.
  

Dandelions are most noticeable in spring
with their telltale yellow flowers

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