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Lawn FAQ
Answers
to frequently asked questions about lawn care
Email your question to
lawnboss1@yahoo.com
INDEX
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Q:
I have much ugly tall fescue, is there a way to remove/eliminate it?
A: The
method I would use would be to spray the Fescue with Round-Up® in
the spring after the Fescue is actively growing. Read the Label. Of
course the active ingredient glyphosate is not a
selective herbicide, so it will kill all the other grasses and
vegetation that are contacted by the spray.
If the
Tall Fescue
is scattered throughout the lawn, you may have to do a total
renovation to get rid of all the Tall Fescue, and then reseed. If
the thatch layer has built-up over 1/2-inch, you should probably
spray the lawn with Round-Up, wait one week, then strip the lawn off
with a sod cutter to get rid of that thatch layer and get down to
bare soil. It would be a good idea to do a soil test in advance of a
lawn renovation so you can balance your soil nutrients at the same
time.
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Q:
Why
do mushrooms reappear on my lawn in the same place?
 A:
Chances are good that a tree was growing in that spot on your lawn
at one time. Even when trees are removed with their stumps
"ground-out" some of the stump and roots will remain. It's from this
old decaying wood that mushrooms will grow. There aren't any
chemical controls for this sort of problem. You can remove the
mushrooms if they are an annoyance, but never eat wild mushrooms
without first consulting an expert.
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Q: Is it
too late this fall to apply potassium, and should I wait until
spring? I live in Massachusetts west of
Boston. I got some soil
tests for my lawn that indicate everything (calcium, magnesium, and
phosphorus) is above optimum except Potassium which is below the
optimum range. It recommended applying 7 lbs. of 0-0-60 per 1,000
sq ft in addition to maintenance fertilizer. Also I read on your
site about applying a nitrogen-rich fertilizer for winterization. I
didn’t see nitrogen in the soil report. Should I apply 10-0-10
fertilizer instead of 0-0-60?
A: Since
potassium has a high "burn" potential, it is best to apply it late
in the season when top growth has ceased but grass roots are still
growing, and ideally, water it in or have rainfall shortly
afterwards. You should still be OK applying it now, but don't wait
much longer. (Question sent during the first half of November)
The
recommendation of 7 lbs of 0-0-60 would give you 4.2 lbs of actual
potassium, which is quite a bit.... did they recommend putting it
all on in one shot? I would be more inclined to split that sort of
heavy application into halves, applying half this fall and the
second half next fall. It is tricky to apply that high an analysis
of fertilizer at the right rate since you are applying such a small
amount (weight wise) and have to put it on lightly and evenly. I'd
skip the nitrogen for now.
Note: Most fall 'winterizer' fertilizers are higher in potassium
than usual to promote winter hardiness and disease resistance in
lawns.
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Q: I live
in Orlando, Florida, when do I fertilize to help my grass grow,
and when do I put down chemicals to keep the weeds down and bugs
away? Same thing for my shrubs, when and how often, so I can plan
out the entire year, MONTH BY MONTH. John
A: It's
smart to plan ahead, especially if you hope to take advantage of any
sales on lawn and garden products. For those LawnBoss
visitors who live in the United States, there is a wealth of local
agricultural information available through their state's land
grant university. For John, this is the University of Florida,
and they have exactly what he is looking for, a month-by-month PDF
lawn and garden guide:
http://extension.ifas.ufl.edu/lawn_and_garden/calendar/
Many of these universities also have agricultural extension offices
located in each county. These are the places you will find
everything from soil test kits to fact-filled brochures on gardening
activities. These extensions are staffed with dedicated
professionals who have all the answers.
In order to use our links below, go to that particular website and
then do an onsite word search for "agricultural extension" or
"extension service."
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Q:
In
what application would one use a 12-0-12 fertilizer? I work in
a Garden Center and we just received a shipment of fertilizer with
that analysis. We have never sold this before and want to be able to
answer questions about it. Thanks, Rebecca
A: That does seem like an unusual analysis when you first
look at it, even though we have already seen fertilizers like
38-0-0 (all nitrogen) and 0-20-20 (phosphorus and potassium
only). Your new fertilizer was probably blended for some of
those counties and states where a phosphorus ban is in place,
since phosphorus is the "zero" in the middle of your analysis.
Therefore, it would be similar to a 10-10-10 fertilizer with the
phosphorus left out.
Phosphorus
pollution causes
algae problems in lakes and other bodies of water. It's been
said that one pound of phosphorus can grow 600 pounds of algae.
When algae dies, bacteria consume oxygen in the water. Less
oxygen is then available to aquatic life. Here are some links
with further information about phosphorus bans in
Michigan,
Wisconsin,
and
Washington State. Along the same lines of "phosphorus-free"
fertilizer would be the "phosphate-free" laundry detergents that
have been on the market for years.
Most soil
tests provide results for phosphorus levels. If a soil test
indicates that phosphorus is already in the optimum range, this
12-0-12 fertilizer would be fine. In the past, you might have
recommended 10-10-10 for a similar application. Due to the
slightly higher (12-percent vs 10-percent) analysis, application
rates would have to be lowered slightly to get the same results.
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Q:
What steps can I take toward having a better lawn this year?
A: As soon as snow
disappears and your lawn becomes soft enough to get soil samples,
gather samples from the main part of your lawn. Most land grant
universities (i.e. Penn State, Ohio State, Michigan State) have
agricultural extension services that sell soil test kits for a
nominal fee of $10 or so. Instructions are included with the kits
for pulling samples. Air dry wet soil prior to mailing it to the
lab. Once results come back, follow instructions for balancing your
pH and major soil nutrient levels. Creating this basic balance will
make all your other fertilizer applications much more efficient.
Step 2 - Start the mowing season with a sharp lawnmower
blade.
Step 3 - Mow your lawn at the proper height, which is
probably higher than you are currently mowing it. Mow often enough
that you aren't removing more than 1/3 of the height. Mulch your
clippings if possible.
Step 4 - Water more effectively. Thorough watering promotes
deeper roots.
Step 5 - Don't over-fertilize, or fertilize grass that is
dormant in summer.
Step 6 - Read the label on every product you use, follow
label directions.
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Q:
Why
are sections of my lawn only green in the summer? We bought a
house that has a different type of grass in the lawn, and that part
of the lawn stays brown from Halloween until well after Easter.
 A:
The straw brown color of dormant Zoysia grass is captured in this
early spring photo. Most Zoysia lawns in the northeastern United
States stay brown for 6 months or more -- from just after the first
hard frost in the Fall until late Spring. Chances are the previous
homeowner planted some Zoysia "plugs." You've probably seen the ads
for them in the Sunday newspaper every Spring, touting the benefits
of a weed-free lawn that needs very little mowing.
In defense of Zoysia, let me say that some people really do love the
low-maintenance aspects of the grass in their northeastern US lawns.
However, most people object to its invasive nature, and especially
the prolonged period of straw brown color every winter.
Eliminating your Zoysia lawn will
require a good 1-2 punch: Spray the grass with glyphosate
(Round-Up®) when the grass is green and actively growing (read and
follow label instructions). Wait 7 days and remove the grass and
roots with a sod-cutter. (Most rental companies have sod-cutters
available, but due to their heavy weight, you may need to have it
delivered) Removing the old sod won't be an easy job since the roots
of Zoysia grass are nearly as tough as fishing line.
Reseed as you
would with any new lawn.
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Q:
Can I mow my
lawn following core aeration?
 A:
Provided you don't lower your cutting height, there shouldn't be any
problem mowing your lawn with a rotary mower. The blade should cut
just above the soil cores without contacting them. Soil cores
usually 'disappear' in about 3 weeks.
Some people ask about removing the cores. While that is necessary on
a golf green (for smooth putting), soil cores should be left on a
home lawn since the soil plugs help breakdown
thatch. (Also
see
mulching leaves into a lawn) |
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Q:
Is it too late to plant
grass seed? (October 25th in Pittsburgh, PA)
A: Yes, it is 2 weeks too late
to plant grass seed in Pennsylvania. The best seeding window for
your area is August 20th thru October 10th. Seed planted later than
that may not germinate properly, and if it does start to grow it may
not get established enough to handle the soil's heaving action with
winter's freeze-thaw cycles.
Your next
opportunity to seed will be Spring, if you can seed without
applying pre-emergent for crabgrass control or any other weed
killers, since these products will be detrimental to your seeding
efforts.
Fall is the best time to plant grass seed in your area.
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Q:
What does "winterizer"
fertilizer do?
 A:
Many
lawn fertilization programs include a final application of "winterizer."
These fertilizers contain a higher amount of potassium than most
lawn fertilizer. An example of that ratio is: 10-10-20.
Higher potassium levels will improve winter hardiness in lawn grass.
Potassium has a high salt index creating a 'burn' potential in some
instances, so read and follow label instructions. If you are also
applying lime in the Fall, it is best to separate your winterizer
and lime applications
by at least 2 weeks.
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Q:
How short
should my lawn be heading into winter?
A: Let's begin this answer by
saying it is never good to 'scalp' or remove more than 1/3 of the
height of your lawn in one cutting. However, it is a good idea to
reduce the height of your lawn gradually as winter approaches.
The ultimate goal is to have your grass short enough that is doesn't
lay-over in winter and become more prone to snow mold disease.
Lowering your mowing height one setting, when slower growth permits
it, will usually do the trick. It is best to lower the mowing height
a couple cuts before the end of the mowing season. |
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Q:
Is mowing
necessary prior to core aeration?
A: The heavy weight of most
core aeration machines makes the grass height unimportant since the
hollow tines will push through just about any length of grass. Most
mowing heights aren't set low enough for the blade to contact the
soil cores, so that isn't usually an issue either. However, it is
important that lawn soil isn't too dry since hard, dry ground will
affect the depth of tine penetration. It's also undesirable to
aerate soggy ground.
Since soil cores should be left on the lawn surface, the only reason
to mow in advance of aeration would be to give yourself another week
before having to mow again, since rainfall can create a muddy
condition where cores might want to stick to your lawnmower's
wheels.
Aeration cores usually take about
3 to 4 weeks to breakdown |
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Q:
When is the best
time to kill dandelions?
A: Fall is the best time to kill dandelions and other
broadleaved weeds. Since weeds are actively storing reserves for
winter they are more susceptible to weed killers that translocate to
the roots. Remember that weeds should be actively growing (not
experiencing drought) for best results.
Dandelions are most noticeable in spring
with their telltale yellow flowers |
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