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Growing Grass in the Shade
By: Sandy Feather ©2007
Penn State Cooperative Extension

Q. I have a question about the effect of large trees on my lawn. In the northeast corner of my yard, two large privet hedges meet to form a corner. My neighbor has a 60-foot-tall tree (not sure what kind) at that corner. The grass in that area is thin and brown in spots. Are the tree and hedges taking nutrients out of the soil so that the grass struggles? What can I do to help the grass grow better in this area?

A. Trees and shrubs definitely compete with the grass for water and nutrients, but the shade they cast in the area is equally important. While some varieties of grass are more shade-tolerant than others, grass usually grows best with at least six to eight hours of sun a day.

If the area is as shady as it sounds, make sure that you grow varieties of grass that tolerate shade well. Fine fescues such as creeping red fescue, hard fescue and Chewings fescue are well adapted to shade, particularly dry shade that occurs in situations like this. Turf-type tall fescues also tolerate shade well. Rough bluegrass tolerates damp shade.

Although most Kentucky bluegrass varieties prefer sun, there are some that tolerate shade, such as 'Bristol,' 'Eclipse,' 'Georgetown,' 'Glade,' 'Midnight' and 'Sydsport.' The best shade mixtures are roughly 60 percent fine fescue and 40 percent shade-tolerant Kentucky bluegrass varieties.
   

Lawn in shade
Properly maintained grass can
do well in shady lawn areas

Even though these grasses are adapted to shade, there are other steps you can take to ensure that they perform their best. Besides casting shade, established trees and shrubs compete with the grass for water and nutrients. It is helpful to water deeply once or twice a week if we have no rain.

To water deeply, apply at least 1 inch of water at one time. This means setting up your sprinkler to apply about one-half inch of water an hour, because that is what our clay soils are able to absorb without runoff. If the area is sloped, you may have to apply the water more slowly to avoid runoff.

You should also fertilize shaded turf at a slightly higher rate than you would otherwise. Fine fescues ordinarily require 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet over the growing season. To make up for the competition from the tree and hedges, apply 2 to 21/2 pounds per 1,000 square feet. This should be split into at least two applications in late spring (mid-May) and late fall (mid-November). If you prefer three applications, divide the 2 to 21/2 pounds of nitrogen into three applications, adding one in late summer (early to mid-September).

 

Turf-type tall fescue ordinarily takes 2 to 3 pounds of nitrogen over the growing season. To compete with the tree and hedges, raise that to 3 to 31/2 pounds. Rough bluegrass and Kentucky bluegrass prefer 3 to 4 pounds of nitrogen over the growing season. To compete with the tree and hedges, use the 4-pound rate. Use the same timing suggested for the fine fescues.

To calculate how many pounds of a fertilizer are necessary to apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn, divide 1 pound by the percentage of nitrogen in the fertilizer. For example, how many pounds of 32-3-5 lawn fertilizer are required to apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet to a 5,000-square-foot lawn? Thirty-two percent is the amount of nitrogen, 3 percent is the amount of phosphate, and 5 percent is the amount of potash. These nutrients are always listed on a fertilizer bag in the same order.

So it's 1 divided by .32 equals 3 pounds.

Multiply the 3 pounds required per 1,000 square feet by 5 to find that it takes 15 pounds of 32-3-5 fertilizer. Simply substitute the first number in the formula of the turf fertilizer you normally use to calculate how much is needed.

It is also important to maintain a higher cutting height when mowing shaded turfgrass. There is a directly proportional relationship between the topgrowth of the grass and the depth of its root system. The shorter you cut it, the less root system it has to compete with the tree and hedges.

Keep your mowing height up around 3 inches to give the grass a fighting chance. Leaving the grass longer also shades out germinating weed seeds.

Don't forget to keep fallen leaves raked up off the grass. If leaves are allowed to pile up, they block out the sun and starve the roots by interfering with photosynthesis (the process whereby green plants make carbohydrates from carbon and water in the presence of sunlight).

If the tree were on your property, it would be helpful to limb it up a little and have the canopy thinned to allow more sunlight to reach the grass. Perhaps your neighbors are equally unhappy with the quality of their lawn in this area and would work with you on this. It is a good idea to hire a certified arborist to prune large trees. They have the training and equipment to do the job correctly and safely.

If the grass continues to struggle because of dense shade, you may consider replacing it with a shade-tolerant ground cover. Some ground covers and perennials that work in such a site include: Siberian bugloss (Brunnera macrophylla); lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria majalis); barrenwort (Epimedium spp.); bigroot geranium (Geranium macrorrhizum); yellow archangel (Lamiastrum galeobdolan); lilyturf (Liriope muscari); and barren strawberry (Waldsteinia fragaroides).

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